Before you call for service, it helps to get a sense of what might be wrong. A few simple checks can narrow things down and even save a diagnostic visit. When customers call, our team often walks them through these checks first. Many times a quick alignment or reset saves a service visit altogether. Here are a few quick ways to gauge what might be happening before scheduling service:
- Door starts down, stops, opener light blinks: Usually a sensor problem caused by misalignment, obstruction, or wiring issues.
- Door lifts two or three inches, then reverses: Often a broken spring. The opener can’t lift the weight without the counterbalance.
- Door looks crooked or stops halfway: Typically a cable that has slipped off the drum or a tension imbalance between springs.
Broken or Weak Springs – A Common Garage Door Problem
Symptoms: The door won’t open, reverses after lifting a few inches, or the opener strains and hums without raising the door.
Cause: Standard 10,000-cycle springs typically wear out after four to seven years of daily use. When one breaks, the opener can’t handle the full door weight.
Fix: Replace the torsion springs with properly sized ones. Upgrading to high-cycle springs adds about 150 dollars on a double door but can double the lifespan and reduce future service calls.
Sensor Misalignment
Symptoms: The door starts down, stops suddenly, and the opener light blinks.
Cause: Photo eyes near the floor can get bumped, misaligned, or blocked by dust or debris. Sometimes the wiring or power supply is to blame.
Fix: Realign the sensors so their indicator lights stay solid, check for secure wiring, and replace the control board if the problem persists.
Cable Off or Door Uneven – A Frequent Garage Door Problem
Symptoms: One side of the door hangs lower, or the door stops partway and looks crooked.
Cause: A cable may have slipped off the drum, or tension between the springs is uneven.
Fix: Reset the cables, rebalance the springs, and inspect tracks, rollers, and limits. If ignored, the imbalance can bend panels or damage the opener over time.
Section Damage
Symptoms: The top panel bends or creases, often after the door fails to open fully or makes loud popping noises.
Cause: When a spring breaks, the opener continues to pull against the full door weight. That strain bends the upper section, especially on older doors without a reinforcing strut.
Fix: Install a top strut and a full-length operator bracket to spread the load evenly. If the panel is already damaged, replacing the affected section may be necessary to restore smooth operation and alignment.
Extension Springs and Noise
Symptoms: Door movement feels uneven or shaky, and you hear loud pops, rattles, or slapping sounds when it opens or closes.
Cause: Extension systems lift the door from each side independently. Without safety cables, a broken spring can whip violently. The design also allows more side-to-side movement, which causes noise and wear.
Fix: Convert the system to torsion if possible—it runs quieter, lasts longer, and operates more safely. If keeping the extension setup, add safety cables and rebalance spring tension to minimize vibration.
Weather and Electronics
Symptoms: The door works intermittently, sensors act up without visible obstruction, or the opener fails during temperature swings.
Cause: Seasonal changes expose weak spots in electronics and metal parts. Cold weather makes steel brittle and increases spring breaks, while Georgia’s summer heat and humidity can corrode wiring and shorten circuit board life.
Fix: Run a full diagnostic before replacing components. Check power, wiring, and sensor voltage, and keep springs lubricated year-round. Seasonal tune-ups prevent most weather-related failures.
